Grapes and timing: Slow but solid harvest, say wine growers

QUINCY, Wash. — The 2022 Washington wine grape harvest is just getting underway, but wine growers are optimistic it’s going to be a good year.

Vicky Scharlau, executive director of the Washington Winegrowers Association, said Sept. 14 that harvest was just gearing up.

“It’s just barely starting in some areas,” she said. “Which is very late. About two weeks later than normal.”

Grower Steele Brown’s vineyard is between Vantage and Quincy, Wash. and he’s starting harvest two-two and a half weeks behind 2021, he said. Shane Collins, director of viniculture for Rocky Pond Holdings, said he started harvesting a block near Chelan, Wash. on Sept. 13.

“That’s 16 days behind that same block than the year before,” Collins said. “We could be anywhere from 12 to 20 days behind (2021).”

The culprit was a wet and chilly spring. The cool weather also dropped soil temperatures, which delayed maturation, Collins said.

Even though the harvest was delayed in comparison to 2021, the fruit - and the wines made from them - should be of good quality, Brown and Collins said.

“Overall the quality is as good as any year,” Brown said. “It’s kind of really an ideal growing year for grapes.”

Chris Stone, vice-president for marketing and communications for the Washington State Wine Commission, said the commission tentatively estimated a harvest of about 210,000 tons for 2022. The crop probably will exceed that.

“I wouldn’t be surprised if we got 230,000 to 240,000 tons,” Stone said. “Last year we did 179,000 tons and change.”

Scharlau said she was anticipating a solid harvest as well.

“We’re looking at a back-to-normal crop year,” Scharlau said.

It could be one of the biggest crops in a few years, she said, although ultimately that depends on how much of the fruit actually ripens.

“This year is shaping up to be a pretty spectacular vintage, if Mother Nature cooperates,” Stone said.

The late start means a late finish, and harvest could go into November for some varieties of red wine grapes. Frost is a possibility in late October and November, and frost is not good for wine grapes. Frost doesn’t harm the vines, Stone said, and doesn’t kill the grapes, but it does stop the ripening process.

Cabernet sauvignon grapes ripen last, and that variety makes up a substantial portion of Washington wine production, Stone said.

The vines have lots of grape clusters with compact berries, which are conditions that produce quality red wines, Scharlau said. White wine grapes show a good acid balance, she said. While the weather was cool through May and June, temperatures heated up in late July and August. Brown said that late heat will help give the grapes a good finish.

Grapes are susceptible to damage from wildfire smoke, but 2022 has been a good year in Washington when it comes to fires, in that there haven’t been very many from a grape-grower’s perspective. Collins said there was some haze in the air around the vineyards near Chelan, and a couple of bad days, but not enough to cause damage.

“This year we’re not smelling that campfire smell in the air,” Collins said.

Brown said damage from wildfire smoke also depends on location, how close the vineyard is to the fires. It also depends on the grapes, and each variety’s vulnerability to smoke.

“Some varieties were affected (in 2021) and some weren’t,” Collins said.

The biggest challenge is labor, Collins said. Rocky Pond has three sites near Chelan with 125 acres of grapes and about 30 acres of pears.

“They all require labor,” he said.

A lack of housing contributes to the labor shortage, he said. Growers have worked to cut labor costs by introducing mechanization where it’s feasible, but it’s not feasible throughout the operation.

“We’ve mechanized where we can,” Collins said. “We haven’t mechanized harvest. Our clients want handpicked fruit.”

Rocky Pond started in Woodinville but produces all its wine grapes in Chelan, Collins said. There are Rocky Pond tasting rooms in both towns.

Brown sells his grapes under contract to the Charles Smith winery in Walla Walla.

“We grow mostly pinot noir out here. Which they say can’t be grown in Washington state, but we’re trying to prove them wrong,” Brown said.

Cheryl Schweizer can be reached via email at cschweizer@columbiabasinherald.com.